What Are the Suckers on a Tomato Plant?
Tomato suckers are non-fruiting stems that grow from the axils (the angle between the main stem and a branch) of the tomato plant; removing them, a practice called “suckering,” can improve air circulation, concentrate the plant’s energy into producing fruit, and ultimately lead to a larger, earlier harvest.
Understanding Tomato Suckers
Tomato plants, while seemingly straightforward, possess a complex growth pattern. One key aspect of managing them effectively lies in understanding and addressing the presence of suckers. These often-overlooked parts of the plant play a crucial role in determining yield and overall plant health.
The Nature of Tomato Suckers
A tomato sucker is essentially a secondary stem that develops in the axil – the point where a leaf branch meets the main stem. These suckers are capable of growing into full-fledged branches, complete with their own leaves, flowers, and eventually, fruit. However, allowing unchecked sucker growth can lead to several issues.
The Impact of Untamed Suckers
If left unmanaged, suckers can quickly transform a well-structured tomato plant into a dense, overgrown bush. This dense foliage creates several challenges:
- Reduced Air Circulation: The thick foliage hinders airflow, creating a humid environment conducive to fungal diseases like early blight and septoria leaf spot.
- Diminished Sunlight Penetration: Inner leaves and developing fruit become shaded, impeding photosynthesis and slowing down ripening.
- Decreased Fruit Production: The plant’s energy is diverted to vegetative growth (producing more leaves and stems) rather than fruit production, resulting in smaller yields.
- Delayed Maturity: The overall ripening process is slowed down as the plant struggles to allocate resources effectively.
The Art of Suckering: Why Remove Them?
“Suckering,” or removing these suckers, is a key strategy for managing tomato plants and maximizing yields. While it might seem counterintuitive to remove parts of a plant, strategic suckering offers several benefits:
- Improved Air Circulation: Removing suckers opens up the plant, allowing for better airflow and reducing the risk of fungal diseases.
- Enhanced Sunlight Exposure: More sunlight reaches the developing fruit, promoting faster ripening and better flavor development.
- Increased Fruit Size and Quality: By redirecting the plant’s energy towards fruit production, suckering leads to larger, more flavorful tomatoes.
- Earlier Harvest: Suckering can accelerate the ripening process, resulting in an earlier harvest.
Determining Your Suckering Strategy: Determinate vs. Indeterminate
The decision of whether and how to sucker your tomato plants largely depends on whether they are determinate or indeterminate varieties.
- Determinate Tomatoes: These varieties grow to a specific size, set all their fruit within a short period, and then stop growing. Determinate tomatoes are often bushier and require minimal suckering. Typically, removing suckers below the first flower cluster is sufficient.
- Indeterminate Tomatoes: These varieties continue to grow and produce fruit throughout the season. Indeterminate tomatoes require more aggressive suckering to maintain their shape and productivity.
The following table summarizes the key differences:
| Feature | Determinate Tomatoes | Indeterminate Tomatoes |
|---|---|---|
| Growth Habit | Bushy, compact | Vining, continuous growth |
| Fruit Setting | Sets all fruit at once | Sets fruit throughout the season |
| Suckering Needs | Minimal, remove below 1st cluster | More extensive, ongoing |
| Support Needs | May need minimal support | Requires strong staking or caging |
The Suckering Process: A Step-by-Step Guide
Follow these steps for effective tomato suckering:
- Identify the Suckers: Look for new shoots growing in the axils – the angle between the main stem and the branch.
- Choose Your Method: You can either pinch off the suckers by hand or use clean pruning shears. If using shears, sanitize them between plants to prevent disease spread.
- Remove Suckers Early: It’s best to remove suckers when they are small, ideally less than 2-3 inches long. This minimizes the stress on the plant.
- Prune Regularly: For indeterminate varieties, check your plants every week or two and remove any new suckers that have emerged.
- Don’t Over-Prune: Avoid removing too many leaves, as they are necessary for photosynthesis. Focus on removing suckers.
Common Suckering Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
Even with the best intentions, mistakes can happen. Here are some common suckering pitfalls and how to avoid them:
- Removing Too Many Leaves: Over-pruning can reduce the plant’s ability to photosynthesize, leading to weakened growth and reduced fruit production. Only remove suckers and diseased leaves.
- Using Dirty Tools: Dirty pruning shears can spread disease from one plant to another. Always sanitize your tools before and after use.
- Ignoring Determinate Varieties: While determinate varieties require less suckering, removing suckers below the first flower cluster is still beneficial.
- Waiting Too Long to Prune: Letting suckers grow too large before removing them can stress the plant and reduce its overall productivity. Prune regularly, while the suckers are small.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
What is the best time of day to prune tomato suckers?
Pruning on a dry, sunny morning is ideal. This allows the cuts to dry quickly, reducing the risk of fungal infections. Avoid pruning on wet or humid days.
Can I root tomato suckers to create new plants?
Yes, tomato suckers can be easily rooted to create new plants. Simply place the sucker in water or directly into soil, and it will typically develop roots within a week or two. This is a great way to propagate new plants from your existing favorites.
How do I tell the difference between a sucker and a leaf branch?
Suckers grow directly from the axil (the angle between the main stem and a leaf branch). Leaf branches grow from the main stem but do not have a direct connection to the leaf base.
What tools are best for removing tomato suckers?
For small suckers (less than 2-3 inches), you can often pinch them off with your fingers. For larger suckers, use clean, sharp pruning shears or a knife.
Why are some tomato varieties more prone to suckering than others?
Indeterminate tomato varieties, which continue to grow and produce fruit throughout the season, are typically more prone to suckering than determinate varieties, which have a more compact growth habit.
Is it possible to sucker a tomato plant too much?
Yes, over-pruning can weaken the plant and reduce fruit production. Only remove suckers and diseased leaves, and avoid removing too much foliage at once.
What happens if I don’t remove tomato suckers at all?
If you don’t remove tomato suckers, your plant will become a dense, overgrown bush, leading to reduced air circulation, decreased sunlight penetration, and smaller, fewer fruits.
Are there any tomato varieties that don’t require suckering?
Some bush-type or compact determinate tomato varieties require minimal to no suckering. However, it’s still a good idea to monitor your plants and remove any suckers that are causing overcrowding.
Can I compost the tomato suckers that I remove?
Yes, tomato suckers can be composted as long as they are free of disease. Avoid composting diseased plant material to prevent the spread of pathogens.
Will removing suckers make my tomatoes taste better?
While removing suckers doesn’t directly change the flavor profile, it can improve the overall quality of your tomatoes by allowing them to ripen more fully in the sun and receive more nutrients.
How do I know if I’m removing the right parts of the plant?
The key is to identify the axil – the angle between the main stem and a leaf branch. Suckers grow from this point. Leaf branches grow directly from the main stem.
What should I do if I accidentally remove a main stem instead of a sucker?
If you accidentally remove a main stem, don’t panic. The plant may be slightly stressed, but it will likely recover. Monitor the plant closely and provide adequate water and nutrients. The remaining foliage should compensate for the loss.