What Is Cream Developer? Unlocking the Secrets of Hair Color’s Catalyst
Cream developer, also known as peroxide, is a hydrogen peroxide-based emulsion used in conjunction with hair dye or lightener to open the hair cuticle and allow for color or bleaching agents to penetrate and alter the hair’s pigment. It is essential for permanent hair color and lightening processes.
Understanding Cream Developer: The Science Behind the Change
Cream developer is much more than just a mixing agent; it’s a vital component that activates the coloring or lightening process. Its primary function is to oxidize the melanin in the hair, either lightening it or allowing new color molecules to deposit within the hair shaft. The volume of the developer indicates the concentration of hydrogen peroxide, directly impacting the lifting power and potential for damage.
The Role of Hydrogen Peroxide
Hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) is the active ingredient. It reacts with the melanin pigment in your hair, breaking it down and causing it to lose its color. This process is what allows hair dye or bleach to work effectively. The higher the concentration of hydrogen peroxide, the more significant the lightening effect and the greater the risk of damage.
Different Volumes Explained
Cream developer comes in various volumes, each indicating the concentration of hydrogen peroxide and therefore its lifting power. Selecting the correct volume is crucial for achieving the desired results while minimizing damage to the hair. Here’s a breakdown:
- 5 Volume (1.5%): Minimal lift, used for depositing color only, toning, or glossing.
- 10 Volume (3%): Minimal lift, often used for covering grey hair or depositing color darker than the natural shade.
- 20 Volume (6%): Lifts 1-2 levels, commonly used for covering grey hair, darkening the hair, or achieving subtle lightening.
- 30 Volume (9%): Lifts 2-3 levels, suitable for moderate lightening and achieving noticeable color changes.
- 40 Volume (12%): Lifts 3-4 levels, used for significant lightening and achieving very light blonde shades. Use with extreme caution due to the high risk of damage.
Choosing the Right Volume: A Strategic Approach
The ideal volume depends on several factors, including:
- Desired Level of Lift: How many shades lighter do you want to go?
- Hair Color and Condition: Darker, healthier hair can tolerate higher volumes.
- Type of Dye or Lightener: Different products require specific developer volumes.
- Grey Coverage Needs: 10 or 20 volume is generally needed for adequate grey coverage.
Table: Developer Volume and Lifting Power
| Volume | Hydrogen Peroxide (%) | Lift (Levels) | Common Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5 | 1.5% | 0-1 | Toning, Glossing, Color Refresh |
| 10 | 3% | 0-1 | Grey Coverage (minimal), Deposit Only |
| 20 | 6% | 1-2 | Grey Coverage, Slight Lightening |
| 30 | 9% | 2-3 | Moderate Lightening, Balayage |
| 40 | 12% | 3-4 | Significant Lightening, High-Lift Blonde |
The Application Process: A Step-by-Step Guide
- Preparation: Wear gloves and protect clothing. Mix the cream developer with the hair dye or lightener according to the product instructions.
- Sectioning: Divide the hair into manageable sections.
- Application: Apply the mixture evenly, starting at the roots if covering grey or lightening the hair.
- Processing: Allow the mixture to process for the recommended time (as stated in the dye or lightener instructions).
- Rinsing: Rinse the hair thoroughly with cool water until the water runs clear.
- Conditioning: Apply a deep conditioner to help restore moisture and close the hair cuticle.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Using the wrong volume: This can lead to uneven color, damage, or poor results. Always follow the product instructions.
- Ignoring strand tests: A strand test is crucial for determining processing time and preventing unwanted results.
- Over-processing: Leaving the mixture on for too long can cause significant damage and breakage. Set a timer and check the hair regularly.
- Neglecting post-color care: Using color-safe shampoos and conditioners is essential for maintaining the color and health of your hair.
Safety Precautions and Considerations
- Always perform a patch test 48 hours before applying any hair color product to check for allergies.
- Avoid contact with eyes. If contact occurs, rinse immediately with plenty of water.
- Do not use on irritated or broken scalp.
- Keep out of reach of children.
- Store in a cool, dark place.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
What’s the difference between cream developer and activator?
While the terms are sometimes used interchangeably, “activator” often refers to a lower-volume developer (5 or 10 volume) specifically designed to activate demi-permanent colors. Cream developer is a broader term encompassing all volumes used with both permanent and demi-permanent hair color.
Can I use a higher volume developer to speed up the processing time?
No! Using a higher volume will not necessarily speed up the processing time, and it will significantly increase the risk of damage. The processing time is determined by the dye or lightener formula, not just the developer.
Can I mix different volumes of developer together?
Yes, you can. By mixing developers, you are averaging the percentage of hydrogen peroxide. For example, mixing equal parts of 20 volume and 30 volume will result in a 25 volume developer. However, make sure to calculate the ratio carefully.
What happens if I use developer without hair dye or bleach?
Using developer alone will lift your hair’s natural pigment, but it will likely result in brassy or orange tones. It’s generally not recommended to use developer without a toner, dye, or bleach to counteract these unwanted tones.
Can I reuse leftover developer?
No. Once developer has been opened and exposed to air, its effectiveness diminishes. It’s best to discard any unused developer.
How do I know which developer to use with my hair dye?
Always refer to the instructions that come with your chosen hair dye or lightener. These instructions will specify the recommended developer volume for optimal results.
Can I use cream developer on my eyebrows or eyelashes?
No! Hair dye and developer are not designed for use near the eyes. They can cause serious damage, including blindness. Use products specifically formulated for eyebrows and eyelashes if you want to color them.
What does it mean when a developer is “stabilized”?
A stabilized developer contains ingredients that help maintain the potency and consistency of the hydrogen peroxide over time. This ensures more predictable results and a longer shelf life.
How long does cream developer last once opened?
Once opened, cream developer will gradually lose its effectiveness. Generally, it’s best to use it within 6-12 months of opening, although this can vary depending on storage conditions.
Is there a developer alternative that’s less damaging?
While there isn’t a direct replacement for developer in permanent hair color, using lower volumes (5 or 10 volume) is less damaging. Also, consider using demi-permanent colors, which often utilize low-volume developers and are less harsh on the hair.
How does the brand of developer affect the outcome?
The brand of developer can affect the outcome due to variations in formulation and additives. Some brands may contain ingredients that help protect the hair or enhance color deposit. It’s often recommended to use the developer from the same brand as your hair dye for optimal compatibility.
Can I use developer to remove previous hair dye?
While developer can contribute to lifting previously deposited color, it’s not a standalone solution. Color remover products are specifically formulated to break down artificial dye molecules, and are more effective and less damaging than using developer alone. Developer might be used in conjunction with a color remover as part of a corrective color service.